reating a Model for 3D Printing
There are many 3D modeling programs that exist for 3D printing; some have a steep learning curve, and others are so easy that elementary schools regularly use it. Depending on your prior experience with 3D modeling, here are some options:
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Sketchup: Free and easy to use, but the 3D models it creates usually needs repairs to become 3D printable.
Tinkercad: Free, easy to use (designed with children in mind), limited to combining basic shapes like boxes, spheres, and cones. You can learn more about how to use Tinkercad here.
Example of TinkerCAD's interface
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Fusion 360: Used to model very geometric parts like engine blocks, fixtures, mounts, or even 3D printer parts. It can also be used for organic models, like helmets and other props. It's free for startups [with a revenue less than $100,000 per year], hobbyists, and enthusiasts, but you'll need a subscription license otherwise.
Meshmixer: A free, virtual clay modeling program, similar to Zbrush.
Onshape: Like Fusion360, but most similar to Solidworks. It's free, but all files are public unless you pay for a subscription to enable private file hosting.
Blender: With a steep learning curve, this mesh modeling program is most commonly used for modeling for video games or rendering. There are many tutorials, and it is free. Learn more about Blender here.
Example of Blender's interface
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Maybe you aren't quite ready to model yet, and that's okay! There are many different websites called "file repositories" that exist just to collect 3D models specifically for 3D printing.
MatterHackers Design Store: We host a variety of 3D models, some for functional purposes, others purely for fun. You can check it out here.
Thingiverse: The big one. Thingiverse has a massive collection of models. However, there's no restriction to the models uploaded in terms of printability. So, unless you see someone else has printed it, your mileage may vary. In general, most models are printable.
MyMiniFactory: Each model has to have an attached image of a successfully printed model, so every model will actually work.
Yeggi3d: This searches a variety of other file repositories, but doesn't always work as well as searching each site individually.
Cults3D: Another file repository to browse through.
Pinshape: Regularly runs contests for models relating to disability assistance. Some models are not free and for sale.
CGTrader: Mostly paid for only models, but highly detailed and generally professionally modeled.
The MatterHackers Digital Design Store - find awesome files to print!
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Tools of the Trade
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Download Slicing Software
Slicing is the term used for the process that takes your 3D design (most likely an .stl file) and transcribes it into the "language" that the printer can understand (gcode). Slicing basically takes your 3D digital model and turns it into a ton of really tiny layers. There are many slicing softwares that exist, some paid for, others free, but MatterHacker's has an awesome slicer called MatterControl. MatterControl has printer profiles, so you can find your make and model and automatically have all the necessary settings filled in. Plus, you can store all of your . stl files in the cloud, and even share them with your friends. Oh, did we mention that it is completely free to download?
Example of MatterControl's user-friendly interface.
Optimizing Your Settings
In MatterControl, there are many settings you can change, from how fast you print, to how hot your printer is, and everything in between. To start off, you won't need to change many settings, in fact, "Basic" settings are all you will need as you first learn how to 3D print. These are the settings you will first see:
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This setting dictates how hot your printer's nozzle and bed are depending on the material. PLA 3D filament, a beginner material, prints with the nozzle at 200°C and the bed at 60°C (if the printer has a heated bed), whereas ABS 3D filament, a more advanced material, prints with a 240°C nozzle and up to 110°C for the heated bed. Making sure your printer is at the right temperature is imperative for a successful print, and changing your material selection is an easy setting to change.
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Fill Density determines how solid or hollow your part is. 0% infill makes your part completely hollow, conversely, 100% makes your part completely solid. Any percentage in between will have MatterControl automatically generate a pattern inside to fill in and provide strength.
For purely cosmetic prints, I use 10% infill, but anywhere from 0% to 15% could work well.
For prints that need to be strong but not rock solid, I like 25%. "Standard" in MatterControl is 30%, so anywhere around there is good. Props and things that are handled are well suited for this infill setting
For fixtures and printer parts, 50% to 80% should be used. This provides parts with enough rigidity but just enough flexibility to not break as easily under pressure.
Create Raft:
are designed to provide better adhesion to the bed. Although it is most commonly used for ABS filament, it can be generated for any material. A raft is exactly what it sounds like; several sacrificial layers to provide the model a large amount of surface area to adhere to the bed.
It used to be more commonly used, but with advancements in slicing engines, they are almost obsolete except for extreme circumstances, like a model where barely any of it touches the build plate and the majority of the first layer is support material. Brims are the new standard.
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Turns on or off scaffolding to support your 3D print. The most important thing to check before printing is whether your model has what's called "overhangs." These are sections of the model that are at an angle greater than 45 degrees from the bed. Generating support material for models like this is essential for success.
For example, a cube has no overhangs, but an upside down "L" has a large overhang that needs support printed under it, otherwise, it will droop and print very poorly, if at all. In essence, each layer is stacked on top of the previous, and if it's too far over the edge of the last it'll fall over the edge.
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Generating Gcode
Gcode is the code language that most 3D printers run on. It's what tells them where to move, how fast to move there, and how hot to be. There are some 3D printers that run on different languages (some printers are proprietary, others just uncommon), but in general, Gcode is what your printer will understand.
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Make sure your bed is level. Depending on your printer there are many different ways to level your bed. Some use inductive sensors and probe the bed, some have a switch that taps around the bed, others need to be done manually. If it's a manually leveled printer, you have two options: turn the thumb screws under the bed to raise and lower each corner until the whole bed is level to the nozzle, or use MatterControl's
bed leveling software to precisely align your bed, even if it's ridiculously skewed. If you want to try baby-stepping to level your bed, read our Feature Spotlight we have on the method. Follow the directions provided with your 3D printer.
Example of baby stepping
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Add your
bed adhesive (if necessary). Some materials need bed adhesives, others don't, and some need very specific adhesives as well. There are much too many filaments to go over all of them, but we have the Filament Comparison Guide which goes over all the best bed adhesion materials.
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Load your SD card or plug your printer into your computer. They each have their pros and cons; printing straight from your slicing software means you can baby-step your print if the bed wasn't as level as you'd like, but if your computer goes to sleep or restarts from an update, you will lose the print. With an SD card, you give up the fine tuning controls you'd get from MatterControl, but free up your computer.
When everything has been checked off, you're ready to get printing! Wait - here are some quick tips though, don't walk away just yet.
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