Page Comparison

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Warping Warping

Warping

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Warping happens when the plastic cools and contracts. As the print cools down and shrinks slightly it starts to pull in on itself. Eventually the forces become so great that the print bends up from the platform. The best way to prevent this is with a heated build platform. By using a heated platform the plastic is kept just below the point where it goes solid, the so called glass transition temperature, and it therefore stays flat and connected to the platform. Although the heat from the platform is often enough it is also recommended to add a thin layer of glue to the platform to promote adhesion. Your printer will have come with a small stick of glue, spread a thin layer of glue onto the platform. Then, with a moistened rag or piece of paper, spread the glue out evenly onto the platform. As the bed heats the water will evaporate and leave a very nice thin and even layer of glue.

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ABS is much more prone to warping than PLA and needs some extra care. Besides needing a higher bed temperature (remember to change the material setting on your machine to ABS) you also need to be more careful with cooling. If at all possible try to print without using the cooling fans at all. Ideally the printer should be enclosed to keep a constant temperature in the printing area. To promote bed adhesion you can make a slurry of ABS by dissolving a few bits of scrap ABS in a jar with Acetone  Spread this slurry like a glue onto your build platform.

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shifting shifting

Leaning prints / Shifted layers

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You can check/fix this issue by lowering the amount of current for the x/Y steppers in the settings of the printer. Go to Maintenance -> Advanced -> Motion settings -> Current X-Y and set it to 1200mA and then attempt a new print.

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pillowing pillowing

"Pillowing"

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Pillowing show up as bumps in the top surface of a print and can either be open or closed. The most important thing here is to make sure that your cooling fans are going top speed when the printer is laying down the top layer. Without proper cooling the thin strands of plastic tend to curl up and stick up above the surface of the print and make it harder for subsequent layers to properly span over the gap. With good cooling the strands gradually grow over the gaps until it closes fully.

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Some users have also reported that the change in infill pattern between 24% and 25% (and up) makes a big difference. The difference between infill percentages at 24 or lower and 25 and higher is how cura lays down each layer. The infill is a crosshatch pattern made with diagonal intersecting lines. At lower densities both directions are laid down for each layer while at higher densities it is only laid down in one direction per layer. So, for layer X it will do lines from the lower left to the upper right. At layer X+1 it will do lines going from lower right to upper left.

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elephant elephant

Elephant's foot

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It's very common that the first couple of layers of a print is wider than you expected them to be. This is because you will generally want to make sure the first layer is nicely squished into the build platform so that it sticks properly. By doing this the plastic gets squished out into a thicker line than normal and thus the bottom of the print will bulge out a bit like an elephant's foot. You can decrease this effect by levelling your bed so that the nozzle is slightly further away from the bed and lowering the bed temperature a bit. It's hard to get rid of this effect entirely without sacrificing bottom layer quality and bed adhesion. It will be easier on small prints as they are less likely to warp and detach from the platform and you can therefore get away with not squishing the first layer as hard.

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An additional step you might want to take while you're at it is to ensure that the set screws of the pulley on the motor is nice and tight, tighter than you might think should be enough.

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Stringing Stringing

Stringing

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The primary countermeasure for stringing is something called retraction. When you have retraction enabled the printer will "suck" the filament back a short distance before moving the print head over an open space. By sucking the filament in a bit it helps prevent plastic from dripping from the nozzle during the travel move.

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Finally it should be noted that some filaments are simply prone to stringing and no matter what you do it might be all but impossible to completely eliminate them. Even different colours from the same manufacturer can differ in how much they string.

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Ringing Ringing

Ringing

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Ringing is what we call the small waves or shadows that usually appear around sharp corners on a print. It's often very apparent if you have text on your print as you will see what looks like shadows of the text. This happens when the print head makes a sudden direction change and the inertia of the head causes vibrations that show up in the print. To combat this there's a couple of things you can do. Simply slowing down your print speed will help lessen the effect. Decreasing the acceleration of the printer will make a big impact on the reduction of ringing without affecting print speed too heavily. You adjust this setting by going into the advanced settings on the printer itself Maintenance -> Advanced -> Motion settings. Try 3000 or 1500 and see how that affects your print.

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