Turning for Beginners

What is a Lathe?

A lathe is a tool into which various workpieces can be placed for operations like cutting, drilling, sanding, turning, etc. The workpiece is rotated by the lathe such that it is in the appropriate position to be operated upon.

This is especially useful for creating multiple pieces with identical symmetry as you can measure the distance from the axis as the workpiece rotates and you can cut, sand, or drill it, to name a few options.

Different types of lathes are required for working with various materials. A wood lathe, therefore, is a tool that is used to work with wooden material.

Now, a lathe, whether for wood or any other material, is not the easiest tool to use. It can be complicated and even dangerous in the hands of an inexperienced person. But that does not mean one cannot have a strong learning curve with a lathe.

There are a few things you should know about using a lathe and the following sections will attempt to cover some of the important basics.

Components

To be able to use a wood lathe effectively, one must know about the components that go into a lathe. The following is a short breakdown of the components one will be working with while using a wood lathe:

Motor

A lathe is a powerful tool that needs a motor to run. It is also an electrical tool that will be connected to a socket, which in turn powers the motor. This motor will be located towards the left region on the lathe’s design, known as the headstock. Usually, a lathe will have horsepower between 3/4 to 2 HP, but this may vary based on the size of the tool.

Tool Rest

The tool rest is that part of the machine where, as the name suggests, you can rest the tools you are working with. A lathe can be dangerous to use if you are not handling the tools correctly.

The tool rest offers you the option of placing whatever tool you are working with on it when it is not in use. This not only gives you a safe spot to rest your tools, but it also makes the whole apparatus more convenient.

Depending on the size of the lathe you have, there may be different types of tool rests, but it is quite common to have a four-position tool rest that allows you to switch safely between tools while the machine is running.

Controls

Whenever there is electricity and a motor involved in a power tool, you also need to have a way to control the machine so you can get the best use out of it and can also ensure safety. Speed control is one of the biggest aspects of using the wood lathe accurately and to the optimal.

The speed control on the wood lathe is typically on a belt pulley which has both electric and mechanical switches. Varying between these controls allows you to change and control the speed of the lathe’s rotation. The speed usually ranges between 500 and 3,000 RPMs. The smaller the piece you are working on, the higher the RPM required will be as it allows you to get a better cut.

Headstock and Tailstock

As mentioned above, the headstock is on the left of the wood lathe and has the motor that powers the lathe. On the other side of the unit is the tailstock. The position of the tailstock can be adjusted based on the size and type of project you are working on.

One of the most important duties of the tailstock is to ensure the spindle is in the right position and rotates evenly. If the spindle’s movement is impacted, either because of speed (which the motor in the headstock controls) or incorrect position (which the tailstock controls), the lathe will not be effective. The tailstock allows one to work with projects of various sizes and shapes as it can be adjusted according to the workpiece at hand.

In other words, the headstock and tailstock will be on either end of the wood stock you are working with.

Setting up the Lathe

When you are setting the machine up, ensure that it is switched off to avoid any potential accidents. Once you have checked that the machine is powered off, begin by organizing the tools you will be using and arrange them on the tool rest according to the order in which you might need them.

This is important as you cannot afford to fumble while operating the lathe. Using the wrong tool while the spindle is rotating could not only damage the product but could also be unsafe.

You should also ensure that all your tools have been appropriately sharpened as blunt tools can also cause your workpiece to chip off and even fly off the bed length if it is not secured properly.

Using the Lathe

Once you have completed the setup, turn the tailstock so you get the right position for operating your workpiece. If you are a beginner, it might be easier to use a softer wood, then gradually move on to more complex woods.

Mark the center of both ends of the wood piece you are working with, then place it between the lathe centers. Tighten the tailstock so your wood piece is held securely in place. The wood piece is required to be above the headstock’s spindle and securely inside the spur’s center.

Another important note is to ensure the tool rest is aligned with the stock you are working with, while also maintaining a comfortable and safe distance between the tool rest and the stock.

The speed you should use will vary depending on the type of wood you are using. You can find various tutorials online for specific types of woods and the speed they work best with. But if you are ever unsure, it is best, to begin with, the lowest speed possible and then gradually scale up based on the requirement.

Stance
Set-up and posture are two areas often overlooked. Stand in front of your lathe with your arms at your side and bend your elbow to 90°.

The center of your lathe should be even with your elbow. You can make slight adjustments from there. I prefer about an inch above the center point. Position yourself in front of the work in a loose stance with your feet shoulder-width apart. Hold your chisel with the handle in one hand and your arm tucked tight to your side. This hand controls the chisel.

Position your other hand on the front of the tool rest and grasp the shank of the chisel. This hand guides the cut as it progresses. Don't push the chisel away from you as you cut. Instead, move your body with the cut as it progresses. This may require moving your feet on some cuts. Naturally, not all cuts can be made in this manner but it's a very good habit to form for most cuts.

First Cuts
For your first cuts, set your toolrest 1/8" to 1/4" away from the work, and even with the center of the lathe axis.

Always turn the piece by hand to ensure that the rest is clear of the work before turning on the lathe. Start the lathe at low speeds for unbalanced blanks and medium speed for better-balanced ones. Increase the speed as the blank comes more into balance. Speed is determined by the size of the work. Larger work requires slower starting speeds; you also use a slower speed for finishing. A 10" bowl, for example, will require slower speeds throughout the turning, while you can increase the speed for a 6" bowl as the turning progresses. Begin turning a small spindle at medium speeds and progress to the highest speeds.

Roughing the Blank
Typically you will rough the blank as the first step. Hold the roughing gouge 90° to the lathe axis, (as described above) with the flute pointing up and the handle low.

Raise the handle slowly until the gouge makes contact with the work. The first point of contact should be at the bevel of the gouge. Continue raising the handle until it starts to cut. The higher you raise the handle, the deeper the cut will be. Remove most of the waste using just the center of the gouge flute, as that is the strongest point of the tool.

Once you have removed the large points from the work you can begin using the sides of the gouge. Swing the handle around slightly to one side and turn the flute to approximately 10:00 on the clock. This will present the long edge on the side of the flute to the work.

Approach the work in the same manner - handle low, rubbing the bevel and raising until it begins to cut. You can cut in both directions by mirroring the chisel position on the back cut. If it’s more comfortable for you, you could simply cut in just one direction. You can achieve a very smooth cut by presenting the long edge of the gouge to the work. Remove as much waste as you can with the roughing gouge, then move on to your smaller gouges.

Rub the Bevel
Always rub the bevel when using a gouge or a skew. The bevel of the tool does two things. First, it directs the cut. If the bevel is pointing toward the center of the workpiece, that’s where the chisel is going to go. It will try to follow the bevel straight into the center of the work. That's how you get those nasty catches.

If you imagine a line extending from the bevel, passing through the outside 1/16" of the work, that’s the path the chisel will follow. This produces a 1/16" deep cut. The bevel rubbing behind the cut prevents the chisel from going deeper into the work. No more catches. Secondly, the bevel supports the grain behind the cut so there is less tearout. As the edge of the tool cuts, the bevel holds the fibers in place behind the cut (much like the mouth of a hand-plane holds the fibers down to prevent tearing the grain). It is this action that determines the height of the toolrest. The toolrest should be set so you can cut in this manner and have the chisel handle in a comfortable position. With the toolrest too low, the handle is too low to be comfortable. It’s the same when the toolrest is too high.

The Scraper
All rules have exceptions and in this case, it's the scraper. The scraper is used at 90° angles (and greater) to the work, with the toolrest slightly below center. You don’t rub the bevel on a scraper. Just scrape the work, as the name implies. There is a multitude of scrapers on the market. From a plain square-edged scraper to specialty scrapers made for hollowing large vessels. All are used in the same manner.

Supporting the Cut
Always position your tool so the cut is supported by the toolrest. When you make a cut, only one part of the cutting edge is doing the work. Imagine a line from that point, straight down the tool to the handle. The tool should be resting on the tool rest directly below the point where that imaginary line crosses the toolrest. If the tool is supported by the toolrest to one side of that line, the resistance of the cutting action will try to twist the tool out of your hand. This leads to poor control, poor cuts, and fatigue.

Following these guidelines will produce cleaner cuts and reduce fatigue on the turner. A proper cut doesn’t require a "death grip" on the tool. You should be quite relaxed when doing most of your turning. Practicing these basic techniques will lead to more enjoyment from your lathe.
 

Frequently Asked Questions

Now that some of the basics of using a wood lathe are out of the way, the following are some frequently asked questions you may want to be answered:

• What about safety equipment?
  Safety equipment is important when you are using a wood lathe. Safety goggles are a must as you want to protect your eyes from flying pieces of wood. But even inhaling sawdust is not good for you, so you may even want to consider investing in a face shield. Ensure there are no loose bits of hair, clothing, etc. that could get caught in the lathe. 

• How much experience does one need?
  The more practice you get on a lathe, the better your technique will become. In other words, no amount of practice is enough, there is always scope for more. Practice using spare stock so you can gauge how to work with different types of wood.

• Why is there so much resistance?
  This is a completely normal process when you are using the lathe. No matter how soft the wood, it is still a solid block of matter that is not immediately malleable.

  When you feel resistance upon applying the tool bit to the stock, you know the lathe is working. The stock will be rotating on the spindle quite fast, so you only want the cutting edge to touch the wood.

  Do not force the tool no matter how much the resistance, as you risk jamming the tool into the wood or losing your grip on the tool.